Guesthouse Puka didn’t live up to the name and a deluxe room it clearly wasn’t, the paintwork distressed in the wrong sense of the word, but Joaquin, stand-in proprietor, made up for its failings in kind. He invited us to share tapas, toast spread with tomatoes and olive oil sprinkled with salt, olives and salsa dip and a huge pan of paella already bubbling on the stove. In his blue checked shirt impressions were of a Majorcan who had never left his island, but Joaquin lives in the States, his wife a professor in University of Tampa, Florida. His mother died and he had been home a year sorting out her affairs and still the paperwork wasn’t complete. It was the day of the elections and he was disillusioned with the current socialists, not least because he had imported a load of lumber from the US for a government dept and still not seeing a dime a year later had to lay off twenty workers he could not pay.
I bring the conversation round to agriculture. Almonds, olives are four years rotting on the trees, he tells us. Nobody wants to pick them, they want to be a DJ in one of the four thousand hotels or waiter in a restaurant. You will see terraces in the mountains, but it is of a time past. The food all comes in from the main land now.
By next morning, his mood had lightened with the People’s Party landslide victory. “Now people know where to invest, they will spend again”.
We explored eastwards, Pollenca, Formentor, Port Alcudia and were usually the only visitors in town. “closed for a rest,” “open weekends only”. We had to drive to the next town to find breakfast. We then headed into the agricultural centre, Llucmajor, Porreres, Petra and Sant Juan with little of interest for the sun-seeking tourist, past Don Quixote windmills, grapes and olives, almonds and oranges. We poked around the markets, admiring squashes hanging in question mark shapes, wild mushrooms in abundance, rows of black acorn fed Serrano hams, suckling pigs displayed with balls of tripe, sheep heads and variety packs of hen combs, offal and eggs taken from the deceased.
But best of all was the mountainous western route, where villages snuggle into the hillside, terraces the remnants of by-gone subsistence farming days. Goats ambled across our path. Validemossa, where Chopin and his lover, George Sands spent a winter of discontent. Deia that Robert Graves abandoned Blighty for to write his poetry. Soller with its presnt day ex-pats, such as www.anna-nicholas.com Café/bars, seafood crepes, alioli (mayonnaise with garlic and lemon) delicious sole basking in mid-20 degrees overlooking the Mediteranean from which it was pulled the same morning.
I had not had a whole twenty-four hours away from the farm since Easter and it took until Thursday to turn off. Friday we were back home, the Fens looked bleaker and flatter. Already it seems like a dream, a pleasant dream, but just a dream never the less.
Pam